Morning jackalopes! Have you all gotten your white winter coats and gone through your yearly antler shedding routine?
I’ve got another finished garment for you today. Honestly, last weekend was quite productive… I finished yesterday’s Jasmine, today’s dress, a skirt, a shirt and a new set of jammies. Last night I compensated by only knitting 3 rows of my current cardigan and eating a lot of peanut butter.
This project is yet ANOTHER VERSION of Kwik Sew 3758, this summer’s obsession, the Knit’n'Cotton dress. This is my fourth version of this dress and I don’t think I’m done yet. Here are the first two sleeveless iterations and here’s the longer sleeved blue and polka dot confection that I made in the beginning of September. The pattern is super easy to make and GREAT to wear! I decided to follow my own advice from my review of the November Anthropologie catalog and make a copy dress of my very own. Here it is.
The Anthspiration dress is the Dulcie Dress, a sleeveless version that caught my eye when I first flipped through the catalog.
Even though I think the sleeveless cut of the original lends a bit of a sophisticated air, I really wanted to have sleeves for warmth. I also changed up the vibe quite a bit by going with a black waistband rather than the more delicate waist finish of the Anthroriginal. I abosolutely LOVE the color combo of cream, beige and black, so I really like my finished product, but I also really like the look with the lighter, thinner waist detail and I’m not 100% sure I shouldn’t have gone that direction.
As I said, I used Kwik Sew 3758, a super versatile pull-on dress meant for knits on top and wovens in the skirt. This is the first time I used view the waistband treatment from view B and tried the 3″ wide piece of black elastic.
Obviously, I went with the arms from view A.
Working with the wide elastic was new to me. It wasn’t as annoying as I anticipated. You topstitch (with the zigzag stitch) the right side of the dress fabric to the wrong side of the elastic, which isn’t that easy with the skirt, as you have to do a lot of stretching and zigzagging and that’s rather hard to do neatly. I may yet unpick the skirt and resew to the elastic more like a seam – right sides together. I was also concerned that there’ wouldn’t be enough stretch once I sewed on the skirt and I wouldn’t be able to stretch the skirt to get it over my head. My fears were unfounded – there are NO problems stretching over my hips and the wide elastic waistband is perfect. Nice and snug, but super comfy.
There’s not a WHOLE lot to say about the construction. I serged bodice – here it is from the inside. Isn’t that a nice sweater knit?
The skirt is made up of three layers of silk. Actually, finding this silk on sale at Hancock (of all places) is what brought this dress into being. I couldn’t resist. The lining of the skirt is a brown china-silk like layer. The middle layer is cream dupioni. I thought that would provide a good amount of warmth, brightness to show through the chiffon/georgette overskirt, and a bit of body to give it that cute ballerina-like look. The top layer is a super annoying silk sheer. It’s chiffon-like, but textured. Of course, working with three layers of silk in a gathered, dirndl type skirt with an elastic waistband was not the easiest thing in the world. In order to help keep everything under control, I serged the three layers together before gathering. Here’s a shot of the waistband from the inside. I’m not impressed with how this looks. Almost unimpressed enough to not wear the dress.
I assembled each skirt layer by serging and also hemmed with the serger. The lining of china silk and the overskirt both got a rolled hem and the dupioni was hemmed with a 3 thread overlock at about a 2mm stitch length.
The china silk is on the bottom of the photo above, the chiffon on the top.
The chiffon was a nightmare to work with, just as one would expect. I’m not happy with the rolled hem and think I will likely trim it off and do a handrolled hem. When I have thirty six hours of free time to spend hand hemming chiffon.
This is a fun dress to style, since it’s so very, very basic. Let’s do a work week, shall we? On Monday we’ll add a suit coat and specs to make it meeting appropriate…
By Friday I’m ready to be a bit more casual by adding leggings, denim and my favorite grey scarf. The only thing that makes the black/cream/beige color combo better is a bit of grey! This is TOTALLY how I tend to dress in real life!
And then Saturday night I might actually go out, so it would be appropriate to glam it up with a cute swingy coat and some heels, right? (Of course, most Saturday nights Mr. Bug, Lucy the Hound and I are actually hanging out in a big human-slash-puppy pile.)
Oh, sigh. Love, love, love the dress… HATE the photo sessions under artificial light! Let’s wrap this up…
The last word… Kwik Sew 3758
Fabric: Bodice: poly sweater knit from Treadle Yard Goods in St. Paul, Minnesota. Skirt: light china-type silk, cream dupioni and a brown textured chiffon. All silk. All from Hancock.
Pattern: Kwik Sew 3758
Notions: Thread, 39″ of 3″ wide black elastic, size 14 stretch needle (for stitching elastic)
Time to complete: 60 minutes to cut – maybe more like 90. 45 minutes to sew bodice. 30 minutes to sew skirt side seams. 45 minutes to serge together sideseams and gather. 30 minutes try on to determine length and trim skirts. 30 minutes to stitch skirts to waistband. 30 minutes to hem skirts with serger.
likelihood to make another?: 100%
curvy girl score: I’ve already scored this multiple times (I think) but this gets a 10. Easy, comfy, cute. Weirdly workable dirndl skirt…