Yellow bow shirt… or how to make an easy shirt impossibly hard to make (New Look 6808)

Project number two of the fall wardrobe contest is COMPLETED!! I moved on to New Look 6808, a cute little shirt with basic shaping and a nice little bow… here’s the finished version!

I picked this pattern because I thought it looked pretty and basic, but still had a shape. I don’t have a lot of shirts in general, being drawn to stretchy tank tops in the summer and ribbed turtlenecks in the winter. I wasn’t quite sure about this one – I thought it might make me look blocky. I’m reasonably happy with the results.
I had a particular problem with the fit. I made three muslins. The first was alright, but needed more room across the hips and needed the bust/darts dropped about an inch. The second was better, but had a serious puddling in the small of the back which caused a lot of confusion. The back was just one piece with two two-ended darts, and the puddling was BETWEEN the darts – it looked great when I cut a straight line up the center back from the hem to the widest part of the darts. To fix, I decided to add a center back seam, so I could add in a wedge where I needed it. The finished product lies very nicely -
The real focus of this particular project was details. I wanted to learn a few new things and make the inside look perfect!! For seam finishing, I used french seams on the straight seams – sides, shoulders and arms. I pinked the horizontal darts and just sewed some double fold bias tape around the sleeve seams (where I connected the arms to the bodice…)
I ended up using the gold brocade I’ve used on other projects for the sleeve and arm facings and on the underside of the collar.
I also put a little button right at the point of the little vent on the sleeve – I couldn’t get it to turn cleanly (bad sewing skills, again) and had to snip the stitches and then sew the seam with a couple of hand stitches. It wasn’t perfect looking, so I found these little covered buttons in my stash to hide my sloppy work.
For the hems, I did a blind catchstitch on the shirt hem, and a slipstitch on the sleeve facing. I’m not sure what I think of the results, especially with the sleeve facing. You CAN see it from the outside, and I don’t know if I thought sewing it on the machine, like the instructions suggested, would be TOTALLY home-made looking. Jury’s still out.
The detail I spent the most time on and was the happiest with was the zipper! I used Gertie’s method of inserting the hand-picked lapped zipper – I used the same gold brocade to make the placket and LOVED the results – I didn’t realize how much it would show! I also wanted to do an underflap – partially because I think they look cool and partially because I kept having a visceral reaction to my wild imaginings of zippered up side flesh! To make the underflap, I cut a piece of grosgrain ribbon I had on hand (7/8″ wide) the length of the zipper. Then I cut a piece of the brocade about three and a half times wider than the ribbon – between three and for inches. I folded over one edge and ironed, then sewed the unironed side to the ribbon, wrapped the ribbon and the just ran the sewing machine over the folded over edge. I turned under the ends a couple of times for a finished look and sewed down with the machine. I also stabilized away – I did a couple of strips of iron on interfacing on the edges of the garment before I even started. I used sew-in interfacing on the placket. Here’s a picture of the zipper to get an idea of the finished product…
So now for a few different looks – not all so different, I actually think the shirt could be a little more versatile if I shorten it by a few inches. But here it is a few different ways!
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  • Sewing Princess
    October 30, 2010

    Lovely shirt… what type of fabric did you use?

  • patty the snug bug
    August 10, 2010

    Gelbean – I'm sort of with you on the buttons – I thought the v-slash was a little funky looking (in not a good way) – a little homemade, perhaps? i was thinking of doing a two button thing with a loopy or something to make it look a little more intentional, but then when I had problems turning that corner and found those little buttons in my stash this seemed like the perfect solution!!

    August 9, 2010

    Cute top! This color is so much better than the pink on the pattern cover! Nicely done!

  • Gelbean
    August 9, 2010

    I love your top! I thought the buttons on the sleeve vent were a beautiful addition to the top and not something to cover a mistake. You did a great job and it looks really nice on you. I have this pattern but I haven't gotten to it yet.

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