Happy first of November! Happy NaNoWriMO! Who’s doing it? C’mon, everyone ‘fess up. I’m doing it. Are you? I have 1,681 words done. That puts me 14 words ahead of goal. Yay me.
OK, down to business. I snuck a dress project ahead of Mr. Bug’s coat. This fabric was meant for my Lady Grey coat, but I realized at the last moment that I didn’t want to deal with pattern matching across a bunch of princess seams so I chickened out. Then I made a dress out of it. With princess seams. Silly me.
For this dress I used Vogue 8648, the same pattern I used to make my green wool sheath dress. The pattern comes with a straight skirt and a full circle skirt option. The full circle skirt was VERY short on me! The skirt as cut from the pattern ended where the red silk band is on my finished dress – I added the red band and the fabric below it to give it a bit more length (a huge pain.) Here’s the technical drawing.
All the changes I’ve gone through…
Since I was concerned about matching patterns, I removed the horizontal bodice seams by taping the midriff pieces to the upper bodice pieces. I also moved the zipper to the side and cut the back piece on a fold instead of two separate pieces. I had already lengthened the short sleeves to 3/4 length for my green wool dress. I also added about an inch of fabric to the inside of the shoulders – the part by my neck – since my first shot at this dress was a little wide-necked. I really love the view from the back.
The devil’s in the details
As if chartreuse and brown toile wasn’t enough, I wanted to add a bit of something extra. I found a deep red silk dupioni and scored a whole yard at 75% off because that’s all that was left on the bolt after my 3/4 yard was cut. I think the girl at Joann’s was feeling nice because I wasn’t buying costume supplies. Yay! The sleeves are completely lined in silk, and I left a 3” split at the top of the sleeves so the points turn back and show off the silk. I laboriously fashioned the red stripe at the bottom of the skirt out of bias-cut 2” strips of silk. I have enough of the red fabric left to fashion a belt and am considering sacrificing my self-fabric vintage belt buckle to the red silk belt gods. I topstitched the neckline in red because I am addicted to topstitching.
The rest of the lining is dark red polyester and the lining hem is finished with orange lace. The waist stay is orange grosgrain ribbon. Since the dress is fully lined I fastened the waist stay by stitching in the ditch in the side and princess seams and then fastened with a snap.
The hem of the dress is finished with 1” wide horsehair braid – my first time using this size rather than 1/2” – I love it, even though it’s so much more pricey.
Matching plaids
I was nervous about matching up the patterns, and I did relatively well (thanks to Tasia’s tutorial on Sewaholic!) I laid out the pattern pieces, matched up, and then basted the fabric pieces together by hand to make sure that they looked alright. Here’s a shot of the back, where you can (faintly) see the patterns matching over the two princess seams.
Zip it
One of my very favorite sewing tasks is putting in a zipper. I usually use Gertie’s method of hand-picking a side zipper.
That’s fun, but my favorite, favorite part is slip-stitching the lining to the zipper. I like slipstitching the bodice lining to the waist almost as much, but there’s nothing like slipstitching that lining to the zipper tape!
That’s it! The end! Tomorrow is my first day at a new job in addition to another 1,600 words to write and four yards of windowpane pinstripe to cut for Mr. Bug’s coat, so it’ll be a busy, busy day.
This dress is stunning. Plus I love your blog. You are awesome. Just thought I should stop lurking and let you know.
Sewhopeful recently posted..Simplicity 1872 Chiffon Blouse
I am only seeing your version of the dress now. It’s beautiful. And the inside is so couture…I am currently struggling with the armhole fitting so I am trying to see what you did there. Congratulations on your work and blog
Sewing Princess recently posted..WIP: Couture Dress
Oops! I didn't mean to delete my comment! I was curious how it worked and went too far!
T-Isis – I'm reedrune! What's yours?? Also – I'm dying for a red silk sash/midriff/rushed thing – but think it'd be too much for an everyday dress. Boo.
Thanks for all the compliments! And Day one at work went well. I am a lucky, lucky girl and feel almost guilty – I'm working at a sewing shop where I will be forced into the drudgery of sewing up samples of Colette patterns out of awesome fabric (japanse car print beignet, anyone??) during the slow times. Sigh.
This dress is fabulous! It is exactly the kind of garment I want to make too! The green fabric is so nice and I love your tweakings (lining, ribbon,…).
You are starting to be to so attentive to small details, it is almost becoming intimidating!
Really nice, and super-cute on! I love the silk detail at the bottom and am suitably envious of your pattern-matching skills (am I too old to have spelled that "skillz?"). Best of luck with the new job.
Lovely dress. And kudos for thinking of the slit in the sleeve to show the red lining. Adds a bit of sass, my dear.
Beautiful dress….love the unusual details…good luck on the new job!!
You did a fantastic job… the details are just amazing and it looks gorgeous on you!
Gorgeous!! I love the red trim along the hem, it's so twirly and fun! Love the little peeks of red at the cuffs too, what a pretty fall dress! Oh and fantastic job matching the pattern, too, glad my tutorial was helpful
And… good luck at the new job, hope you have a great first day!
Super, super darling! I love the fabric choice and the red…Oh my, just gorgeous. What a fabulous dress to get ready for the winter months ahead. Beautiful details too. Looks delightful on you too!
This dress is beautiful! I'm so impressed with the pattern matching. After seeing your fabric and lining choices, I'm tempted to make this pattern also.
You're dress is awesome! Great job! Very inspiring. I'm going to check out the writing site you linked to……….exciting!
The dress looks wonderful! I love your description of not wanting to use it on one project for a reason.. and ending up using it on a different project with the same problems! That happens to me often!
I am, I am! I only made 1300 words yesterday, though… I couldn't find my headphones and I just can't write while listening to my hubby watch TV (trying to write in a different room just invites pouting). Definitely have to do better today. What's your handle?
Dress looks gorgeous, and that pattern is just darling. I'm glad you're thinking about a belt… I was looking at it thinking "sash! sash!" but belt is probably more you
. I like slipstitching, too. It's satisfying somehow.
Nice pattern matching! I will admit, sometime I pick a pattern with princess seams specifically to break up a busy fashion fabric,but perhaps I should be ashamed of myself..
Have a great first day! I too, am going back to work this morning after being on leave.
you rock this dress, sister! My fav part is the peek of lining coming out of the sleeve vents.
I love the pop of the red lining (and the matching red trim)! What a gorgeous dress, and good luck at your new job!
Oh wow! the dress is gorgeous!! I absolutely love the fabric–and the lining is divine! I wish the inside of my dress looked as good! It's so beautiful on you! Good luck on your first day at the new job.