Pad-stitchin’ bear. And pockets too!

OHHHH!!!! I’ve been just waiting to use that phrase. Padstitchin’ bear. Get it? Get it? Anyone who read my label post will get that I’m a bear, as is my husband and dog. The three bears. And I’m padstitching… so without further ado, here’s a snapshot of my lovely work. Tangerine dream.
padstitch1[Check out the way the hems are completely different lengths]

So first off, I’m addicted to hand-tailoring. It’s a nice replacement for hand-quilting (well, piecing) which I also enjoy, except I’m set in the quilt department, so I try to avoid making more these days.

Second, I felt like my taping of the lapel was completely off. Gertie’s instructions were wonderful, but I had a hard time with the placement of the twill tape on the shoulder, and her camera focus just missed that part of her jacket! And the tailoring book was no help due to it’s super dense language.

Third, I couldn’t BELIEVE the wonderfulness that happened when I catch-stitched the princess seam allowances down. It really helped the jacket hang wonderfully!

Finally you can see the hem problem. I’ve gotten the whole jacket sewn together and I think the problem is a mix of (1) using the muslin as a pattern, I think my front pattern piece stretched (2) my fabric is pretty loosely woven and I didn’t meet up the side and side front pieces well – I could have, with a little smoothing and stretching, gotten that side piece closer to the front hem AND (3) the side piece is a bit short!

The side piece meets up much closer to the side back piece. I thought of ripping and starting over, but in the end, decided to trim the front piece a bit and fudge the rest with the hem. I’m a little concerned with how the garment will hang, but well, I’m lazy.

padstitch2[padstitching close up]
I really, REALLY liked padstitching, although again, I’m not sure how much it did in terms of shaping the collar. I noticed a bit more shaping with the 1/8” padstitches. Also, I noticed that my stitches are more uniform and closely packed than Gertie’s and what’s shown in that unintelligible tailoring book, so I think I need some technique refinement. Google here I come!
padstitch3[a real fold! not steam enhanced!]
Here’s a shot from the other side, taken before I steamed. I guess that taping and padstitching did something. Also, I had a hard time keeping the stitches from showing on this side. At least this is the underside of the lapel! Here’s a close-up with some of the stitches circled and enhanced. You may also be able to see my edge finish (a 5x3mm zig zag) that I’m not sure if it helped or hurt…
padstitch4[how to not padstitch]

I also worked on my pockets last night. The pocket pattern piece seemed a tad small, so I added a bit while cutting. They’re still small, I could have added an inch and a half…

pocket1[sizing the pocket up a bit]
I was worried about the pocket fabric flipping out and showing. I haven’t decided if I’ll do any topstitching to secure the pocket, so I decided to secure the pockets a bit to the seam allowance once they were sewn on and pressed. The stitching is marked with the green arrows. the right side of the fashion fabric is facing up
pocket2[a bit of extra pocket security]
And that’s as far as I got with my photo documentation before tucking in for the night! Today is sleeve day!
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6 Comments
  • frk.bustad
    October 16, 2010

    I love the fabrics you've chosen for the coat! It'll turn out really beautiful!

  • lazystitching
    October 15, 2010

    What an amazing job, Patty! I don't think I will ever get hand stitching as pretty as that :)
    ~Alana

  • ~Sherry~
    October 15, 2010

    Love the fabric you are using – nice and bright for winter!
    I try to avoid lining showing at the pocket by cutting the inner pocket bag in fabric and the outer pocket bag in lining. But you have such cute lining!

  • Angela
    October 15, 2010

    It's beautiful! Great progress… I love your fabric choices!

  • [patty the snug bug]
    October 15, 2010

    I figured that's what the 3/8" seam was supposed to do… but never having successfully gotten a facing to not flip out, I was feeling extra strident!

    The padstitching was helped along by my very content catching up on Project Runway! Team Mondo! Ivy/Gretchen are some kind of crazy!

  • tanitisis
    October 15, 2010

    In theory the 3/8" seam on the pockets (vs. the 5/8" seam on the coat sides) is supposed to keep the pocket lining from showing. I read about this technique about two days after I put the pockets in my winter coat /sigh. It looks good—and that is some crazy dense padstitching! :)

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